Monkey Island
It was after 11 when we set off to see the chimps. There were 61 of them on six separate islands along an estuary dense with mangroves where the TK River meets the Atlantic. We missed the feeding boat, which would have taken us to all six islands, so we had to hire a fishing canoe. We loaded into the wooden boat, warped along its edges, with two young Liberians on either end. The two paddled and the rain poured ceaselessly. We heard birds. It was almost peaceful. After twenty minutes or so, we reached the island. A big sign warned, "Danger! Do Not Enter." The chimps started coming down from the trees. There were two, then eight. They clambered over to the water's edge. We kept our distance. I asked to go closer and was told abruptly no. Then the screeching began. They lifted their huge mouths to the air and started to bellow. Are you taping? I asked Tecee. She nodded.
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